A few weeks ago, one of my social media contacts in Turkey and I started chatting. His wife is expecting and I ordered them the well known book “What to expect when you are expecting” in the US since they had no access to it in Turkey, but really wanted it. My friend offered to pay for it, but in return I asked the favor of sending some Turkish sausage and tea instead, which he did immediately.
A couple of days ago, I received a notification in my mailbox that a package for me was being held at the main post office of our island. Due to suspicious contents it was awaiting inspection by the government sanitation department! I had completely wiped the memory of my request out, since I had promised to forget about it, for it to be a surprise. Therefore, I was duly very surprised and just couldn’t figure out why the book I had ordered from amazon.com was a cause for a national health concern. And yes, I am blond, and sometimes a scatterbrain. Of course! It was the sausages!
I called the number on the notification, it kept ringing with no answer, for days. You have to understand that Spain’s reputation for being laid back is well deserved. If you are not ready to slow down and adjust to the Mediterranean pace, forget about living here – you will end up a basket case within a few months. Patience here is not just a virtue – it is a survival technique.
So this morning, I gave up calling, dressed appropriately for a trip into the big city and took my pope mobile for a ride into town, to the main post office. Armed with ID, positive attitude and a stone-melting smile I entered the impressive building.
You have to know that the average Mallorcan Spaniard likes to keep foreigners at a distance. Nobody will ever ask you how you are, because quite frankly if you are not Mallorcan they really aren’t interested that much. Customer Service is a new and foreign concept, so better not ask. For that reason, I have learned to seek out a person of competence, whose position requires a certain basic knowledge: to confirm the address and that I was in the right part of the building, I headed for the security guard at the door.
Before I could even ask anything she said: “Señora, you have to take a number and wait your turn for one of the counters!” With that, my stone-melting smile vanished. Refusing to be rid-off that easily, I asked whether she could just confirm the address for me, to prevent me from having to wait just to find out I would have to go to an entirely different building. She replied “Señora, I do not know the address of this building!” “You mean, you do not know where you work ?” “No, Señora! Now you go and take a number and wait your turn!” B’§%& ! With no other remedy available, I took my number and waited.
As I had expected, I was in the wrong place. The counter person, after conferring with two of her associates from the national postal service, explained to me that they were not quite sure where exactly that office was, but they were absolutely positive there was no such office within the main post office – although they had to admit the letter indicated the same address. I had them clarify to me that “they did not know whether there was a government sanitation department” within the very building where they worked. But they were kind enough to suggest, that since there were government guards and flags at the big entrance right next door, I should go ask there.
So I left the building some completely wasted 45 minutes later. But not without giving the security guard at the door my “I am putting a spell on your family down to your grandchildren”-look – and headed next door. Another uniformed woman. Somebody really had it in for me today. It is hard enough here to use polite courtesy to get anywhere, a smile may work on the rare male officer – but I knew it was completely lost on a female.
This women was a Guardia Civil officer. In Spain, we have the local police who are riding around in somewhat modern dark blues wearing mustaches, long hair, pony tails, showing off their tattoos under their rolled up sleeves – and then we have the national guards: stuffed in olive-green, heavy-drill fabric uniforms which have not been changed much since they were originally designed in the early 19th century. Women wear the same cut like men and look accordingly square, including the funny shiny hats, that do not do any person any favors other than maybe Carrot Top. As they are supposed to instill fear and civil order, it always feels like they have been instructed to avoid smiling at all cost.
The young woman that received me on the steps of the government sanitation department building (flags and all) had a look at my document and asked me to step inside, to have me pass security. There is something really comforting in watching your purse being scanned, and scanned, and scanned again – especially since it is just big enough to hold my wallet and car keys. I felt very secure – and that she was taking the p***.
She pointed me to a door along the corridor nearby, and I went on my merry way, admiring the opulent white marble halls of a building that was being maintained by my tax dollars. The lady in the office was nice, by comparison. At this stage I was ready to gratefully perceive any form of information as helpful kindness. She asked me to fill in the form, especially the part which required a detailed description of the contents of the package. I let her know that I would not know the content until I had actually had a look inside the package. Stoic and rather bored looks on the opposite side of the table. Then I asked her what the purpose of the form was, and she responded that it was the authorization for the department to open and inspect the package which was being held in quarantine. Quarantine ?!
My experiences in Spain have taught me that the less information you give, the less red tape will get thrown up in the air. So under no circumstances was I going to let on, that I was anxiously awaiting a package full of delicious Turkish sausages, spices and tea. On a few occasions I had created some yet unknown precedence, requesting something that to me (and the rest of the world) is normal but here at times may be outlandish – with the consequence that new rules were made up on the fly, usually not in my favor.
When I handed her back the paper, she stopped, looking me in the face exuding something that felt like pity. I smiled as wide as I could, telling her that I would just wait right here to receive my package, we could both have a look inside, and complete the form. “Oh, no, this is not going to happen today, and certainly not HERE! This is an office!” Dumb-ass me, really – what was I thinking ?! Instead, she took the signed form from me and wrote down a phone number on a post-it note, telling me to call that number if I had not heard back within a week. I recognized the number, told her it was the same one I had called repeatedly, but that there had never ever been anybody to pick up. She nodded, stating that “the phone is in the back of the room, and the inspector is usually so busy, she does not take any calls.” SO WHAT IS THE F****** POINT?” was about to blow out of my gaping mouth, but instead I pulled myself together to leave. I really want that sausage!
As I was getting up, she assured me that – should the inspector sign off on my shipment – it would be delivered to my door only 2 days later. “And what if not?” I asked – to which she answered: “Next time you can just fax us the authorization form instead of coming all this way (meaning: instead of stealing my precious time). We usually do not receive the public at this office”. WTF ?
I made my way back to the car, thinking how every time I think that surely now I have seen it all, something more stupid comes along. Mallorca always lives up to its reputation of being an island full of surprises, and its officials never fail to disappoint.
Intent on rewarding myself after this mind blowing experience, I went and bought a coffee-to-go in one of the few places on the island that offer a very nice coffee in a paper cup with a lid, across the street from the post office. Coffee here is not just a convenience. It is a lifestyle – but that is fodder for an entire different blog post at some other time, which shall include plumbers and electricians and missing parts.
I grabbed my coffee, hopped back in the car, turned the Eagles on my car stereo up full blast, opened the roof to let the sunshine in and sipped my delicious coffee – which relieved some of that tension, lowered my heart rate and put a smile back on my face.
And although it was not Starbuck’s or Dunkin’ light and sweet with a shot of hazelnut, it made me feel a bit “like home”,where I used to take daily conveniences like a functioning postal service and coffee-to-go for granted. Driving along, I thought that the only difference was the Mediterranean to the right of my car – and the stick shift.
My cell phone rang and pulled me back to earth. Spencer asked me to come to his office and pick him up. As he got in, he had a look in the backseat, and asked me
“So, where is the sausage ?” …
P.S. To Burcu and Baris: if you read this, you understand why I still have not called to let you know what happened – it was a long story, and frankly I am embarassed – because surely things in Istanbul are a lot more advanced than in Mallorca.